- Mix bleach with a 20-volume developer if your natural shade is blonde or light brown. Go for a 30- or 40-volume developer if your hair is very dark or black.
- Check your hair every 10 minutes while the bleach sits to make sure you don’t go too light or damage your hair and scalp.
- Tone and condition your hair after bleaching to avoid unwanted orange or brassy tints.
Bleaching Your Hair
Gather your supplies. You'll need to buy: Bleach powder. Decide what shade you're aiming for, then head to your local beauty store. Bleach powder comes in either packets or tubs; it can be more economical to buy a tub if you're planning on bleaching your hair more than once. You'll also need a tint brush (for applying products), a bowl, and plastic wrap. Some highly rated options on Amazon include Wella, L'Oreal, and Clairol. Developer. Developers come in strengths ranging from 10 to 40. If your hair is blonde or light brown, use a 20 or 30 volume developer. If your hair is black or very dark, you may need 40 volume developer; this is very damaging so try to avoid if possible. The lower the volume, the less damaging it is to hair. If you aren’t sure what strength to use for your hair, go with a 20-volume developer. You can find a selection of developers on Amazon here. Permanent toner. If you want to go platinum, you'll need toner. It takes the yellow/orange color out of just-bleached hair. Some toners can make hair white, some create warm golden tones, and others create a silvery effect. If you aren't sure, ask someone at the beauty supply store to assist you. You can find a variety of toners on Amazon here.
Combine the bleach powder and developer to create the mixture. Normally the instructions will tell you to add bleach powder and developer at a 1:1 ratio, but you can double check your product for specifics. Put the powder in a mixing bowl and mix in the correct ratio of developer using a spatula or spoon. Bleach powder and developer is usually measured in scoops, meaning you use the plastic scooper that comes with a tub of bleach powder. For a 1:1 ratio, you’d mix 1 scoop of bleach powder and 1 scoop of developer. The mixture will not look blonde; it should be blueish-white or blue. It also shouldn’t be too soupy or too thick. It should have a consistency like gravy. If you're using it, now is the time to mix in the red gold color corrector. Follow the instructions on the bottle.
Apply the bleach to completely dry hair. Use the tinting brush to paint on the mixture, one section at a time. Really saturate your hair with the mixture. Work from the ends of your hair up to within a few inches of the roots – these come last because they tend to process the bleach more quickly. To avoid hot roots, do not put bleach near your scalp while working with the ends of your hair. If you have dark hair, wait 20 minutes after applying the bleach to your ends before putting it on the roots. Keep a towel nearby to wipe bleach off your face or arms.
Cover your hair with a sheet of plastic wrap. Set a timer for 15 minutes to start. Check your hair's color by wetting a section with water from a spray bottle, then toweling the bleach off. If your hair still looks dark, reapply a little bleach to the section you wiped off, and let the bleach sit in your hair for another 10 minutes. The bleach will cause your head to feel warm; it may sting. If it gets painful, wash it out immediately.
Keep checking until your hair is sufficiently light. Go in 10 minutes intervals until you reach your desired shade. Do not let the bleach sit for more than an hour. It won't make your hair any lighter, and could cause serious damage to your hair and scalp.
Rinse the bleach from your hair with cold water. Keep rinsing until the water runs clear. Do not use a shampoo, since you just stripped your hair of all oils. Follow up with a deep conditioner or hair masque. Avoid shampooing for 24 to 48 hours, if possible.
Towel your hair and allow it to air try. Avoid blow drying it right after bleaching, as further damage may occur. Your hair should now be a yellow blonde color. It's fine to stop there if you like the results. If you want to make it platinum, you must also tone it.
Toning Your Hair
Make the toner mixture. In a mixing bowl, mix one part toner to two parts volume 20 developer. The mixture will look blue. Remember to wear gloves to avoid getting the products on your hands. Toning your hair after bleaching it will help get rid of any orange in your hair.
Apply the toner. Use a clean tinting brush to cover your hair in toner in sections, exactly the same way you applied the bleach mixture. If you ended up with hot roots, pay special attention to those. Some toners work on dry hair, while others can be used on wet hair. Read the instructions to be sure you are using it right.
Let the toner sit on your hair for about 30 minutes. Check the instructions on the bottle to determine exactly how long the toner should stay in your hair. It's usually approximately 30 minutes.
Rinse the toner from your hair with cold water. Run your hair under water until the water runs clear. Use a shampoo made for bleached hair to make sure all the toner is removed.
Condition your hair. Use a deep conditioner for color treated hair. For the next few weeks, treat your hair carefully. Don't use too much heat, and avoid excess chemicals.
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