Reading Platinum Markings (Hallmarks)
Locate the hallmark on the inside of the band. Look at the inside of a ring's band to find the hallmark that indicates the platinum purity. Find this marking as a sure way to determine that the ring is truly made of platinum. You may need a magnifying glass to see the fine engraving on a small ring. If there is no engraved hallmark, the ring is not platinum, or is made with less than 50% of it and cannot be considered and marked as platinum.
Look for a symbol that indicates platinum. Check the inner band for a symbol that you can use to quickly identify if the ring is made with real platinum. The type and presence of the symbol depends on the country of origin; sometimes there may only be words and numbers instead of a symbol. In the U.S., you will see a symbol that resembles a house shape (triangle atop a rectangle), or simply a combination of letters and numbers. In India, you will find a symbol created by an uppercase “P” and a lowercase “t,” followed by the number 950. In China, you will find the English letters “Pt,” perhaps alongside other Chinese characters. In Japan, you will see “Pt” followed by the number 850, 900, 950, or 999.
Read the letters and numbers of the hallmark. Look at the numbers and/or letters that are given as part of the platinum hallmark. The letters will designate the ring as platinum, while the numbers indicate how many parts out of 1000 are pure platinum by weight. If letters are given, they will say either PT, PLAT, or PLATINUM, which indicates that the ring is at least 95% platinum. In the U.S., the number given before or after these letters can be 850, 900, or 950. This indicates that the ring is made with 85%, 90%, or 95% pure platinum, respectively. The other percentage of the ring composition is a metal that the platinum is alloyed with to make it harder.
Determining the Alloy Metal Quality
Find out what metal the platinum is mixed with. Determine what kind of alloy a ring is made of by reading labels and talking to a jeweler. An alloy is a mixture of two or more metals, in this case used to make the platinum harder. Platinum rings should be marketed listing the quantity of other metals, especially if there is less than 90% pure platinum in the ring. A 950PLAT ring will typically be alloyed with cobalt, copper (or a combination of the two), iridium, palladium, ruthenium, or tungsten, which makes up the other 50 parts of 1000. If this other 5% is from the platinum metal group (iridium, palladium, ruthenium, rhodium), the ring can be considered 100% precious. A 900PLAT ring will usually be alloyed with iridium or palladium. Sometimes it will be listed as IRIDPLAT to indicate a mix of 100 parts iridium and 900 parts platinum. An 850PLAT ring will usually be alloyed with palladium. Less than 85% platinum will often be listed with the quantity of palladium or other metal, such as "585PLAT 415PALL."
Understand what alloys yield the best quality. Once you know the content of other metal present in a platinum ring, you can make choices based on the quality that each type yields. Find an alloy that will have the finish and durability you desire. A composition of 950 parts platinum and 50 parts cobalt is often considered the finest alloy quality for platinum rings. This combination creates an extremely strong and durable ring with a very bright finish, looking almost as if it has been lit from the inside. A ring with 950 parts platinum and 50 parts ruthenium is very durable and almost scratch-resistant, so it is a very fine quality choice. It also has a high shine mirror-like finish. A 950 parts platinum and 50 parts iridium is perhaps the most common alloy sold in platinum rings, but it is not the highest quality. It yields a softer metal which is prone to scratches, pits, and bends, leading to a duller finish over time.
Consider possible allergens in metal alloys. Choose a platinum alloy with a certain type of metal if you have a known allergy to one of the common base metals. Note that any ring with a high percentage of pure platinum should not cause negative skin reactions, as platinum is hypoallergenic. Avoid cobalt in alloys with a lower amount of platinum, as those with a cobalt allergy may be sensitive. However, in a quality PT950/Cobalt alloy, allergic reactions are very rare. Copper is also a fairly common metal allergy. Steer clear of rings with copper or copper-cobalt platinum alloys, especially in lower grades, if you have a known reaction. An allergy to any metal in jewelry will show up as a red, itchy rash or blisters on the skin that comes in contact with the jewelry. Test out wearing a piece of copper or cobalt jewelry for 24-48 hours, if you can, to determine if you will have a negative reaction.
Inquiring About Other Platinum Ring Factors
Find a trusted jeweler. Talk to and buy from a jewelry store that has a good reputation and staff that makes you feel comfortable and informed. Ask to talk to the head jeweler at a store or an expert on platinum to get all the answers you need about quality. Research or ask to see the credentials of a jeweler. Look at how long they've been in business and check independent reviews of them online to see what their reputation is like. Make sure anyone in the store can answer your questions about a ring thoroughly and confidently, or can direct you to someone else on the premises who can. You should not buy precious metal jewelry like platinum rings from an online store, where you cannot look at and ask questions about the piece before buying.
Ask specific questions. Go into a jewelry store with specific questions in mind to help you further determine the quality and authenticity of a platinum ring. Make sure you know all the possible details you can before purchasing. Ask about how the metal will wear and look over time. Shiny new platinum naturally dulls slightly with age, but many actually enjoy the way this makes precious gems set in the metal appear sparklier by contrast. Find out if the jeweler can resize or repair the ring in the case of scratching or other damage. Some may even offer free or discounted repairs or retreatment, or a money-back guarantee if you are not satisfied with the ring. Ensure that a store is not overcharging for a ring with a lower platinum content. For instance, an 850 or less platinum alloyed with iridium should not cost the same as a 950 platinum ring, or be marketed as pure platinum when it is not.
Consider eco-friendly options for platinum. Make specific ring choices if you have an ethical concern about the impact of platinum on the environment. Note that platinum mines create a huge volume of waste to produce just an ounce of pure platinum. Consider a used or vintage platinum ring for an option that doesn't require or support additional platinum mining. Consult an antique jewelry expert to get an appraisal on vintage metal quality. Choose a jeweler that has options for rings made with recycled platinum alloys, which can be just as durable and luminous as the new metal. You may also have your own platinum jewelry melted down by specialty jewelers to create a new ring. Buy from jewelers that advertise low impact mining methods and fair trade labor practices for new platinum rings that contribute to slightly less negative impact. Do your own research into policies and partnerships to verify their claims.
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