How to Prepare Hair for Relaxer

Caring for Your Hair a Week Beforehand

Take out any extensions or braids. At least 7 days before you plan to have your hair relaxed, remove your extensions or take out any tight hairstyles, like braids. These styles can put tension on your scalp, which may make it more sensitive to the chemical relaxer. In addition to being gentler on your hair, taking out your braids or extensions will allow you to thoroughly cleanse your hair when you wash it. In the week leading up to your appointment, avoid wearing your hair in styles that will pull or tug on your scalp. Instead, opt for styles like loose ponytails, braids, or buns.

Detangle your hair gently. Divide your hair into sections, then use a wide-toothed comb to ensure that your hair is tangle-free from root to tip. If you run into a tangle, use your fingers to gently remove it, rather than trying to pull the comb through it, since that could break your hair. If there are any tangles in your hair, your hair will be more likely to break when you wash it. Also, you might not be able to shampoo your hair as thoroughly if it's tangled.

Wash your hair with a clarifying shampoo. Once your hair is detangled, get into the shower and wash it thoroughly from root to tip with a clarifying shampoo. This will strip away any product buildup, oil, sweat, or dirt that might be on your scalp, leaving your hair squeaky clean. If there's any buildup on your scalp, it could keep the relaxer from penetrating your hair evenly, making it less effective.

Treat your hair with a protein conditioner to strengthen it. Apply a conditioning or reconstructing protein treatment to your hair while it's still damp, and leave it on for about 10 minutes. Then, rinse it out thoroughly. The protein will help strengthen your hair, but it can actually make your hair brittle if you leave it on for too long or use it too often, so be sure to carefully read and follow the directions on the treatment label. You can find protein treatments wherever beauty products are sold. However, if you don't have one on hand, try making your own hair mask out of protein-rich ingredients like egg yolk, yogurt, sour cream, or avocado.

Deep condition your hair to restore moisture. Both clarifying shampoos and protein treatments can leave your hair feeling dry. To help prevent this, apply a rich deep conditioner to your hair after you rinse out the protein treatment. Let it sit for about 10 minutes, then rinse it out thoroughly. If your protein treatment was also a deep conditioner, or if you used conditioning ingredients like avocado, you can skip this step.

Don't rewash your hair again before your appointment. After you've washed your hair with clarifying shampoo, your scalp will need about a week to build its natural oil back up. Those oils, called sebum, will help protect your scalp from the chemicals in the relaxer. It's okay to style your hair as you normally would, but avoid using any products on your hair throughout the week, including dry shampoo.

Avoid activities where you'll sweat a lot. Try not to workout vigorously over the 7 days before your hair appointment, especially the last 48-72 hours. If you sweat, it can leave a buildup on your scalp that can cause itching and irritation, which may make you more sensitive to the relaxer. You don't have to skip working out completely, but try to stick to activities where you won't sweat as much, like doing yoga, going for a walk, or cycling.

Protecting Your Hair as It's Relaxed

Detangle your hair gently before your appointment. Comb or brush your hair thoroughly with a wide-tooth comb to remove any tangles. Take your time, and be careful not to scrape across your scalp with your comb. That can leave small scratches in your scalp, which could leave you more vulnerable to an injury from the relaxer chemicals. Similarly, if your scalp itches, try to pat it or rub it, rather than scratching. If your stylist has to detangle your hair at your appointment, it will put extra stress on your scalp, which could make it more likely to burn.

Coat along your hairline with petroleum jelly. To protect your skin from the chemicals in the relaxer, pull your hair back with a headband, or put it in a loose ponytail. Then, spread a layer of petroleum jelly all the way along your hairline, as well as the tops of your ears. If you have sensitive skin, you may want to spread petroleum jelly on your scalp, as well. Tip: If you're going in for a touch-up, call ahead and ask your stylist if they recommend that you protect your previously-relaxed hair by coating it with coconut oil, petroleum jelly, or something similar.

Ask your stylist to use a mild or normal-strength relaxer. Relaxers are typically labeled by their strength, and you can choose from mild, normal, and super-strength. Even if your hair is super thick or tightly coiled, it's still much better for your hair to use a normal-strength relaxer. It may take a little longer for the relaxer to work, but your hair will be less likely to break, and it will leave a little of your natural texture, so your hair will have more body and strength. If you have fine or wavy hair, try using a mild relaxer that contains ammonium thioglycolate. Let your stylist know about your preference at the start of the appointment. For instance, you might say, "I know super-strength will get my hair straighter, but I really don't want to use such a harsh chemical on my hair. Is it okay if we use a normal strength, instead?" Keep in mind that just because a relaxer is labeled as "lye-free," it doesn't necessarily mean it's gentler for your hair. No-lye relaxers contain calcium hydroxide, and although they're designed to be less irritating on your scalp, they can dry out your hair more than relaxers that contain sodium hydroxide, or lye.

Be completely honest with your stylist about your hair history. If your hair has been previously treated with any chemicals, including other relaxers or dyes, it's very important to tell your stylist. If relaxer is applied to hair that's already been chemically processed, it could cause damage and breakage. By talking openly with your stylist about any other treatments you've had, they'll be able to decide the safest way to treat your hair. In most cases, your stylist will still be able to apply relaxer to the new growth at your roots. However, in some cases, like if your hair is very damaged from bleach, they may recommend waiting until your natural hair grows out more. Because it can be very difficult to only apply relaxer to your new growth, it's especially important to have touch-ups performed by a licensed professional.

Maintaining Your Hair Between Treatments

Touch up your roots every 8-10 weeks or longer. The longer you can wait between touch-ups, the easier it will be to ensure you don't overlap your relaxer. Wait at least 8-10 weeks before you get your roots relaxed, but if you can wait 12 weeks or longer, it's even better. If the texture difference in your hair becomes obvious, try wearing a cute headwrap or turban to stretch the time between salon visits!

Use a sulfate-free shampoo every 3-4 days to gently cleanse your hair. Sulfates are detergents that can strip the natural oils from your hair. By opting for a sulfate-free shampoo, you'll help preserve your hair's natural moisture, leaving it healthier and stronger between appointments. Try to only wash your hair 1-2 times a week to keep it from drying out.Tip: For an extra-moisturizing treatment, apply coconut oil to your hair before you wash it. Let it soak in for 10-15 minutes, then shampoo the way you normally would.

Moisturize your hair daily with a leave-in conditioner or light oil. Relaxer dries out your hair, so it's important that you moisturize it every day. Work a lightweight leave-in conditioner or hair oil into your hair every day, focusing especially on the ends, which are the most likely to dry out. In addition, use a deep conditioner once a week. If you don't have a separate conditioner, apply your regular conditioner after you wash your hair, and leave it on for 10-15 minutes before you rinse it out.

Avoid heat styling your hair to prevent further damage. Styling your hair with a blowdryer, curling iron, or straightener can weaken your hair, making it more susceptible to damage. Since your hair has already been damaged by chemical processing, try to avoid using these tools as much as possible. If you do plan to heat style your hair, spray it generously with a heat protectant product. This can help minimize the damage to your hair.