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Expert Source
Woody LovellProfessional Barber
Expert Interview. 28 January 2020.
Outlining with a Trimmer
Comb your facial hair to get rid of curls. Run a small, fine-toothed comb through your beard while it’s dry to straighten your hair. This will make it easier to determine the actual length of your facial hair and prevents tangles. Special combs for facial hair can be purchased at big box or hair care stores.
Trim your beard to your desired length. Use a comb attachment on an electric trimmer. Set the trimmer to the length you want for your goatee. Since facial hair grows in different directions, cut your hair in the direction that is most comfortable. Use a small pair of scissors to trim hard to reach places like the ends of your mustache or the patch under your bottom lip.
Make a line in your beard with your trimmer 1 finger-width from your chin. Take the comb attachment off your trimmer so it shaves close to the skin. Tilt your head up and place the trimmer against your skin. Pull it slightly down to make a line before pulling the trimmer away. Continue the line across the bottom of your chin. Trim your beard shorter to prevent the trimmer from pulling your hair.
Cut the edge of your goatee slowly so it lines up with your mustache. Hold your trimmer vertically at the edge of your mustache. Pull the trimmer towards your ears until you see a visible line in your beard and then take it away from your skin. You don’t have to keep your mustache if you don’t want to. Use it as a guide to shape your beard before you would shave it off.
Use your trimmer to cut your cheek and neck hair close to the skin. Once you set the lines of your goatee, trim all of the hair on the rest of your beard. Go slow as you shave near the outlines you’ve made. This will shorten the hair as much as an electric razor can. You’ll have to use a manual razor to be completely clean shaven.
Shaving Your Cheeks and Neck
Rub clear shave gel into your cheeks and neck. Wet your face before rubbing the gel into your beard. Cover all the areas that you plan to have clean-shaven. Use a clear shave gel rather than a foaming gel so you can easily see where you’re shaving and so you don’t accidentally remove parts of your goatee.
Shave your cheeks with a multi-blade razor. Use short downward strokes for the most comfortable shave. After every few strokes, rinse your razor so it does not clog with hair or shave gel. Shave against the grain of your facial hair for smoother skin.
Cut the hair on your neck last to cause less irritation. Tilt your head up to pull the skin on your neck tight. Pull the razor down in long strokes. Since you’ve saved your neck for last, the moisturizer in the shave gel will have had time to set and make it easier to shave. Be extra careful shaving your neck since it is full of veins and arteries.
Shaping Your Goatee
Use a straight razor. A single blade will give you the smoothest cut and make straight lines. Straight razors can be purchased in big box stores as well as online. Some multi-blade razor heads have a single blade on the opposite side. Check your razor blade to see if you have one already.
Hold the razor at the edge of your goatee and pull towards your ear. Hold your skin tight with two fingers on your non-dominant hand as you shave in light, short strokes with the other. Get right on the edge of the hair to make a clean cut. Do this on both sides of your goatee. Let the razor do the work for you. Straight razors give the cleanest and smoothest shave.
Pull the razor down your neck to make a smooth line on your neck. Be gentle as you trim across the bottom of the goatee. Use shorter strokes so you have the most control as you shave. Make sharp corners at your jawline with downward strokes.
Trim the hair right below your nose if you’re keeping your mustache. Purse your lips so the skin above your upper lip is stretched out. Use the straight razor to trim the corners closest to your nose down so the top of your mustache lays even. Cutting the tops of your mustache will prevent people thinking you have long nose hair.
Rinse your face to remove excess shave gel and clean off hair. Cup your hands and use cold water from the bathroom sink to clean off. You may have to do this a few times to remove all of the shave gel and hair. Pat your face dry with a soft towel. Apply aftershave or a moisturizing lotion to keep your skin soft and prevent irritation from your razor.
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